LuxorTravel Guide
The world's greatest open-air museum sits on the Nile between Karnak and the Valley of the Kings — and feeds its visitors sun-ripened Upper Egyptian home cooking at wonderfully gentle prices.
Is Luxor right for you?
Winter
Around 41°C by day in July, 23°C in January — recorded at the local weather station.
Cheap by regional standards — eating, sleeping and moving around all cost little.
No hour-by-hour route here yet — the guides below cover it by subject instead.
Winter
Average daily highs, recorded at Luxor, 1991-2020 normals.
Where this comes from
NOAA (via en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luxor)
Budget
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Cairo500 km
half a day's travel · both good in January, February, March
- Wadi Rum, Jordan510 km
half a day's travel · both good in March, April, October · a different price level (mixed)
- AlUla, Saudi Arabia540 km
half a day's travel · both good in January, February, March · a different price level (luxury)
- Petra, Jordan590 km
half a day's travel · both good in March, April, October · a different price level (mid)
Finding Luxor
Reading Luxor
Luxor on a lean budget: the smart traveller's playbook
The world's greatest open-air museum is also one of its most affordable destinations — if you use the local ferry, time your tickets and bargain with a smile. A practical guide to doing Luxor well for less.
Luxor is a city of mornings: four of them, in order
Every monument here rewards the first two hours of light and punishes the middle of the day, which is why Luxor is planned morning by morning rather than day by day - four of them, plus the evenings.
From dawn ful to midnight tea: eating your way through Luxor
Upper Egypt's table runs on fava beans at sunrise, slow tagens at noon and hibiscus tea long after dark. A full day of eating in Luxor, hour by hour.
The souq lanes and West Bank villages of Luxor
One cheap ferry ride and fifty metres past the souvenir stalls, Luxor turns local: farming villages laid over a necropolis, painted tombs nobody queues for, and a market that still shops for itself.
What to Eat in Luxor: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Upper Egypt's Table
Between the temples and the tombs, Luxor eats beautifully: ta'ameya at dawn, molokhia at noon, sugarcane juice in the heat and tea on a Nile-side terrace.
Luxor, framed
What we'd do in Luxor
See and do
- Cross the Nile like a local
The public ferry between the East and West Banks costs a trivial amount and runs constantly through the day.
Read: Luxor on a lean budget: the smart traveller's playbook - The souq beyond the first fifty metres
Luxor's market street begins near the temple with papyrus paintings and alabaster cats — but keep walking.
Read: The souq lanes and West Bank villages of Luxor - The villages between the tombs
Ride across, look up, and the West Bank reveals itself as a chain of farming villages laid over a necropolis.
Read: The souq lanes and West Bank villages of Luxor - The tombs nobody queues for
The Tombs of the Nobles, on the hillside at Sheikh Abd el-Qurna, hold the finest painting in Thebes and almost none of the crowds.
Read: The souq lanes and West Bank villages of Luxor - A felucca to nowhere in particular
Back on the East Bank, negotiate an hour's sail toward sunset.
Read: The souq lanes and West Bank villages of Luxor
Eat and drink
- Nile-side grills and Nubian flavors
Evening belongs to charcoal: kofta, chicken and river fish grilled over flame, served with tahina, salads and mountains of bread.
Read: What to Eat in Luxor: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Upper Egypt's Table - The sweet finish
Chase it all with om ali, Egypt's warm bread-and-milk pudding with nuts and raisins, or a flaky, honeyed feteer.
Read: What to Eat in Luxor: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Upper Egypt's Table
Practical essentials for Egypt
Egyptian pound (EGP)
Arabic; English is widely used in hotels, at tourist sites and among educated Egyptians, much less so elsewhere
Type C/F, 220V 50Hz
Uber and Careem are the practical door-to-door option in the cities; in Cairo, three metro lines also run on paper tickets bought at the station.
Baksheesh is constant - keep small notes for porters, attendants, guides and drivers - while smarter restaurants already add a 10-12% service charge.
Not safe to drink - use bottled water and avoid unpeeled raw fruit and vegetables.
Right-hand side; the 1949 International Driving Permit is required alongside your national licence.
122 (police), 123 (ambulance), 180 (fire), 126 (tourist police)
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.