RomeTravel Guide
Rome layers 2,800 years of history into one walkable, chaotic, endlessly rewarding city. Ancient amphitheatres sit beside baroque fountains, espresso bars and trattorie where the carbonara has not changed in generations. Come in spring or early autumn, walk everywhere, and accept that you will leave with a list of things you missed — that list is the reason everyone returns.
Is Rome right for you?
April–June, September–October
It depends where you stand. There is a cheap version and an expensive one — the guides below say which is which.
We publish a multi-day route for this one.
Our editors pick it for a trip with one other person.
April–June, September–October
Mixed
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Siena180 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in April, May, June
- Naples190 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in April, May, June · a different price level (budget)
- Florence230 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in April, May, June · a different price level (mid)
- Pisa270 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in April, May, June · a different price level (budget)
Finding Rome
Reading Rome
The Storied Hotels of Rome: Where to Stay, Neighbourhood by Neighbourhood
In Rome, the address is half the experience. From the grand names above the Spanish Steps to hilltop resorts overlooking the dome of St Peter's, here is how to choose your Roman base.
48 Hours in Rome: The Eternal City at Full Tilt
Two days, two millennia. A fast, focused itinerary that covers the Colosseum, the Vatican and the best plate of carbonara of your life — without ever feeling like a checklist.
From market to table: a full food day in Rome
Rome's cooking starts at the market stalls and ends in a trattoria at ten at night. Spend one day eating the city in the right order — this is the route.
- ItinerariesRome in three days: the complete route2 min
- DestinationsRome, season by season: an honest guide to timing your trip12 min
- FoodRome's great markets: what to taste, stall by stall, and when11 min
- The ListThe Most Beautiful Streets and Squares of Rome, Ranked12 min
- Hidden GemsRome without the crowds: its secret best months10 min
Rome, place by place
Everything below is named in one of our own stories about Rome. The line under each is the sentence that recommended it, and the link goes to the piece it came from.
Where to stay
The areas and addresses our writers put first
Via Veneto
RomeThe curving boulevard made famous in the Fellini era still carries its glamour in its hotels.
Monte Mario
RomeOn a hill northwest of the centre, the Rome Cavalieri — a Waldorf Astoria hotel — is Rome's answer to a resort: expansive pools and gardens, a famous art collection, and a panorama that takes in the dome of St Peter's.
Trastevere and Monti
RomeRome's two most village-like central neighbourhoods offer smaller boutique stays amid trattorias and artisan shops.
Where to eat
Tables worth crossing the city for
Armando al Pantheon
RomeArmando al Pantheon, a family-run trattoria steps from the Pantheon, has been serving Roman classics since 1961 — book ahead and order the carbonara or the cacio e pepe.
Da Enzo al 29
RomeDa Enzo al 29, a tiny trattoria on Via dei Vascellari, is worth the queue for its amatriciana and seasonal artichokes; arrive before opening or expect a wait.
Pizzarium
RomeLunch nearby at Pizzarium, Gabriele Bonci's celebrated pizza al taglio counter near the Cipro metro stop — order by weight, eat standing.
Testaccio
RomeThe covered Mercato di Testaccio, in the quarter that grew up around Rome's former slaughterhouse, is where food lovers head first — a working neighbourhood market that has grown a superb layer of prepared-food stands.
Trionfale
RomeA short walk north of the Vatican walls, Mercato Trionfale is one of the largest covered daily food markets in Rome — the Mercati di Roma guide counts something in the region of 270 stalls — and among the least touris…
Esquilino
RomeThe Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, a few minutes from Termini, reflects the city's immigrant kitchens — spices, exceptional produce, halal butchers and Chinese greengrocers alongside Roman stalls.
What to see
The things that justify the trip
Chad Greiter
Roman Forum
Your ticket typically covers the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill next door; take them slowly.
Tamal Mukhopadhyay
MChe Lee
Piazza Navona
Loop past Piazza Navona and its Bernini fountains, then thread the alleys east to the Trevi Fountain.
Michele Bitetto
Trevi Fountain
The Trevi Fountain between roughly mid-morning and early evening.
Fineas Anton
Trastevere
Cross the Tiber to Trastevere as the lanes turn golden.
Leonardo Di Manici
Gianicolo
Walk it off with the climb to the Gianicolo terrace for the city lit up below.
Calvin Craig
Sistine Chapel
Pace yourself through the Raphael Rooms so you arrive at the Sistine Chapel with attention to spare.
Andrea G
Via Giulia
A Renaissance street laid arrow-straight behind the Tiber bend for Pope Julius II in the early 1500s, Via Giulia is Rome with the volume turned down: ochre palazzi, antique dealers, and the ivy-draped Farnese arch spa…
Colosseum
RomeBe at the Colosseum for the first entry slot — the light is soft, the crowds thin, and the scale of the amphitheatre lands hardest when the arena floor is quiet.
Monti
RomeSpend your last hours in Monti, the village-like quarter between the Forum and Termini: aperitivo in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, dinner at whichever enoteca has a free table, and a final unhurried look at the floo…
Piazza del Popolo
RomeThe grand northern gateway, and the first thing a traveller arriving overland from the north saw for three centuries.
Via dei Coronari
RomeOnce the pilgrim road to St Peter's, cut through the medieval tangle in the 1470s, and named for the coronari who sold rosaries to the walkers.
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere
RomeThe basilica's golden mosaics glow above the fountain steps, where locals and travellers share the evening in roughly equal numbers.
Via Margutta
RomeA green, quiet ribbon below the Pincio, long beloved of artists and film directors.
Things to do
Walks, tours and days out we would book again
Porta Portese
RomeRome's sprawling Sunday flea market, running along the edge of Trastevere, is about objects rather than eating — clothes, vinyl, tools, furniture, a great deal of junk and the occasional real find.
What we'd do in Rome
See and do
- Minimum useful stay
four nights, which buys you three full days
Read: Rome, season by season: an honest guide to timing your trip - Piazza Navona
Built over the stadium Domitian raised in the first century AD - you can still read the oval in its footprint - Navona is baroque Rome at full volume.
Read: The Most Beautiful Streets and Squares of Rome, Ranked - Shoulder sleepers
November (bring an umbrella) and early December
Read: Rome without the crowds: its secret best months - Via Giulia
A Renaissance street laid arrow-straight behind the Tiber bend for Pope Julius II in the early 1500s, Via Giulia is Rome with the volume turned down: ochre palazzi, antique dealers, and the ivy-draped Farnese arch spanning the road.
Read: The Most Beautiful Streets and Squares of Rome, Ranked - Daylight
short, with sunset around 4.50pm in early January and nearer 6pm by late February
Read: Rome without the crowds: its secret best months
Eat and drink
- Golden seasons
late winter and spring, for Rome's vegetables
Read: Rome's great markets: what to taste, stall by stall, and when - Time needed
one market, done properly, is about ninety minutes
Read: Rome's great markets: what to taste, stall by stall, and when - Antico Forno Roscioli
the bakery arm of the Roscioli family's small empire, trading since the early 1970s — does the same pizza bianca and will split it and fill it with mortadella, which is the correct order.
Read: Rome's great markets: what to taste, stall by stall, and when
Practical essentials for Italy
Euro (EUR)
Italian; English is spoken in hotels and tourist businesses but thins out quickly in smaller towns
Type C/F/L, 230V 50Hz (Type L is the Italian three-pin)
Frecciarossa and Italo high-speed trains link the major cities in a few hours; in town you buy a local paper ticket such as Rome's €1.50 BIT and validate it as you board.
Service is included and tipping is uncommon — a few euros for genuinely good service is plenty, and the coperto on the bill is a cover charge, not a tip.
Tap water is safe to drink everywhere, although restaurants will normally bring bottled.
Right-hand side; a UK or EU photocard licence is accepted, though hire companies commonly require an International Driving Permit as well.
112 (single European number; the old 113, 115 and 118 route to it)
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.