Everyone comes to the Zambian town of Livingstone for the falls. Almost nobody arrives thinking about lunch — and yet the Zambezi region feeds you memorably, from smoky riverside braais to colonial-era high tea with the spray of Mosi-oa-Tunya on the horizon.
Key facts: Livingstone is the gateway town on the Zambian side, around ten kilometers from the falls; the currency is the Zambian kwacha, with US dollars accepted at tourist venues; the falls run fullest from roughly February to May, after which levels fall steadily from around June, with some channels starting to dry out by about August.
Nshima, the Heart of the Table
Start with Zambia's staple: nshima, a thick, smooth maize porridge eaten by hand, rolled into a ball and dipped into whatever accompanies it. It arrives with 'relishes' — stewed meat or fish, tomato-and-onion gravies, and greens. Eating nshima properly, with your right hand, is half the pleasure; any local eatery in Livingstone will happily show you how.
Zambezi Bream, Fresh from the River
The river that carves the falls also stocks the kitchens. Bream — whole, butterflied, grilled over charcoal with lemon and chili — is the region's signature protein, served everywhere from simple grills to lodge dining rooms. Order it beside the water it came from.
Ifisashi and the Peanut Tradition
Zambia's great vegetable dish is ifisashi: leafy greens such as pumpkin leaves or rape simmered in a rich ground-peanut sauce. It is comfort food of the highest order and usually the best thing a vegetarian can order in the country. Look also for kapenta, tiny dried freshwater fish fried crisp with tomato and onion — an acquired taste worth acquiring.
