Most visitors to Victoria Falls eat where they sleep — at the lodge, on the sunset cruise, at the hotel grill. Fair enough. But the towns on either side of the falls, Livingstone in Zambia and Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe, have their own food life, and the local markets are where it beats loudest: sacks of maize meal, pyramids of tomatoes, dried fish by the scoopful and, in season, delicacies that will test the adventurous. A guided market walk, which many operators offer, is the easiest way in.
Key facts
- Livingstone (Zambia) and Victoria Falls town (Zimbabwe) both have busy local produce markets; go with a guide for context and easy introductions
- The staple on both sides is a maize-meal porridge — nshima in Zambia, sadza in Zimbabwe
- River fish, especially bream, is the signature protein of the Zambezi
- Mornings are the best time to visit markets, before the midday heat
Nshima: the centre of the plate
Everything orbits the white maize-meal staple, cooked to a smooth, firm mound and eaten by hand — pinch, roll, and scoop up the relish alongside. Those relishes are the flavour: slow-cooked greens, tomato-and-onion gravies, beans, and whatever protein the day provides. Many local restaurants and market cookshops serve it; eating nshima once is simply part of visiting.
Fish from the Zambezi
Bream is the river's pride — usually served whole, grilled or fried, with nshima and greens. You will also see kapenta, tiny dried fish sold in silvery heaps at the markets; fried up with tomato and onion, they are salty, crunchy and beloved. Dried fish keeps without refrigeration, which is why it anchors market stalls here.