Two coasts, one idea

Italy keeps its two most famous coastlines a full day's journey apart: the Cinque Terre in Liguria, up near Genoa, and the Amalfi Coast south of Naples. Most travelers sprint through both. The better plan is to pick your pace, stay overnight, and let the day-trippers drain away with the evening trains.

The Cinque Terre: five villages, no cars

Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore — five fishing villages pinned to the cliffs, connected by a local railway, ferries and hiking trails. Cars are essentially useless here; the train between villages takes a few minutes and runs constantly.

What to actually do

  • Hike a stretch of the Sentiero Azzurro (the "Blue Trail") between the villages. Sections open and close with landslide repairs — check locally, and buy the Cinque Terre Card, which covers trails and trains.
  • Watch dusk from Vernazza's castle. The Doria Castle ruins above the harbor give you the shot this coastline is famous for: village lights coming on over a darkening sea.
  • Swim off Riomaggiore's rocks in the morning, then eat anchovies from Monterosso — the local specialty, served fried, marinated or on lemon-soaked bread.

Where to base

Vernazza is the classic; Manarola is the photographer's choice; Monterosso has the only real beach and the most hotel beds.

The Amalfi Coast: drama by the mile

South of Naples, the SS163 road threads along cliffs for 50 kilometers of switchbacks between Positano, Amalfi and a dozen smaller towns. It is one of the world's great drives — though in summer, the bus or the ferry is faster and far less stressful.

What to actually do

  • Walk the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) from Bomerano to Nocelle: a high traverse with the whole coast unrolling beneath you. Go early; there is little shade.
  • Climb to Ravello, the quiet town above the crowds, for the gardens of Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone's Terrace of Infinity.
  • Take the ferry between Positano, Amalfi and Salerno — the coast was built to be seen from the water.

When to go

April–June and September–October on both coasts: warm sea, open trails, and rooms that don't require a second mortgage. August is beautiful, packed and expensive.

The slow rule: one coast per trip, two nights minimum in each base. The coast rewards the traveler who is still there after the last tour bus leaves.