Frankfurt gets typecast as a city of bankers and layovers, which suits the locals fine — it keeps the apple-wine taverns to them. Beneath the skyline sits one of Germany's most distinct regional kitchens. Eat it dish by dish.
Key facts
- Signature drink: Apfelwein (apple wine), tart and lightly sparkling, served from ribbed jugs
- Where the food lives: the taverns of Alt-Sachsenhausen, south of the river, and the Kleinmarkthalle market
- What it costs: tavern meals are honest and affordable by big-city standards
Grüne Sosse: the green sauce
Frankfurt's most famous dish is a chilled sauce of seven fresh herbs — traditionally borage, sorrel, cress, chervil, chives, parsley, and salad burnet — blended with sour cream or yogurt and served over halved boiled eggs and potatoes. It is spring in a bowl, and locals take it seriously enough that the city has celebrated it with its own festival. Legend ties the recipe to Goethe's family table; whatever the truth, nearly every traditional tavern serves it, especially from spring onward when the herbs are in season.
Frankfurter Würstchen: the original frankfurter
The thin smoked pork sausage that conquered the world under this city's name is protected in Germany — genuine Frankfurter Würstchen must come from the region. Locals eat them simply: gently heated in water, never boiled hard, with bread, mustard, and horseradish.
Handkäs mit Musik
A pungent, translucent sour-milk cheese marinated in vinegar, oil, and raw onions — the onions are the Musik, the music. It arrives with dark bread and butter and pairs perfectly with apple wine. It is an acquired taste worth acquiring.