Cairo is not a city you tick off; it is a city you surrender to. Twenty-plus million people, a river that built a civilisation, and the last surviving Wonder of the Ancient World on the doorstep. Three days is enough for the essentials — pyramids, museums, medieval streets and an evening on the Nile — provided you plan around the traffic and the heat.

Key facts

  • Best season: October to April; summer afternoons regularly exceed 35°C
  • Getting around: Uber and Careem work well and beat haggling; the Metro is useful for Coptic Cairo
  • Money: carry small notes for tips — baksheesh oils every wheel in Egypt
  • Fridays: mosques close to visitors around midday prayers; plan accordingly

Day 1: Giza and the Grand Egyptian Museum

Morning

Be at the Giza plateau when the gates open — typically 8am, but check locally — before the heat and the coaches. The Great Pyramid of Khufu has stood here for some 4,500 years; its neighbours Khafre and Menkaure, and the Sphinx below them, complete the skyline you have known since childhood. Going inside a pyramid is a hot, cramped scramble and the chambers are bare, but few people regret it. Agree any camel or horse price firmly before mounting.

Afternoon

The Grand Egyptian Museum, two kilometres from the plateau, is the new home of the Tutankhamun treasures and a colossal statue of Ramses II in its atrium. Book tickets online in advance and give it three to four hours.

Evening

Head back towards the river for a felucca sail from the Garden City or Zamalek banks — an hour drifting under lateen sails at sunset is Cairo at its gentlest. Dinner at Abou El Sid in Zamalek delivers classic Egyptian cooking: molokheya, stuffed pigeon, om ali.

Day 2: Old Cairo and the bazaar

Morning

Start in Coptic Cairo: the Hanging Church, built above a Roman gatehouse, the Church of St Sergius with its crypt associated with the Holy Family, and the Ben Ezra Synagogue. The Coptic Museum's collection of early Christian art is quietly world-class.

Afternoon

Cross to Islamic Cairo and walk Al-Muizz Street, a medieval thoroughfare lined with mosques, sabils and merchant palaces, before losing yourself in Khan el-Khalili. The bazaar has sold to travellers since the 14th century; haggling is expected, smiling is compulsory.

Evening

Take mint tea at El Fishawy, the bazaar's famous cafe, open more or less continuously for over two centuries, then dinner nearby at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant, named for the Nobel laureate who set his novels in these alleys.

Day 3: The Citadel and the Nile

Morning

The Citadel of Saladin commands the city from its limestone spur; inside, the alabaster-clad Mosque of Muhammad Ali is Cairo's most photographed Ottoman landmark. Below it, the vast 14th-century Sultan Hassan Mosque is for many the finest building in the city.

Afternoon

Recover in Al-Azhar Park, 30 hectares of gardens with the best skyline view in Cairo, or return to Tahrir Square for the older Egyptian Museum if the pharaonic appetite remains.

Evening

End with dinner on a Nile-view terrace in Zamalek and a slow walk along the corniche.

Tip: Distances in Cairo are measured in traffic, not kilometres. Do one area per half-day, book Ubers rather than street taxis, and keep Friday mornings for the park or the river rather than mosques or museums.