KathmanduTravel Guide
Nepal's chaotic, charismatic capital packs medieval squares, great white stupas and Himalayan trailheads into one dusty, friendly valley.
Is Kathmandu right for you?
October to November and March to April
Around 30°C by day in June, 19°C in January — recorded at the local weather station.
Cheap by regional standards — eating, sleeping and moving around all cost little.
We have a weekend here planned hour by hour.
October to November and March to April
Average daily highs, recorded at Kathmandu (Tribhuvan International Airport), 1337 m, 1991-2020 normals.
Where this comes from
World Meteorological Organization; Department of Hydrology and Meteorology (Nepal)
Budget
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Pokhara140 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in March, April, October
- Varanasi, India360 km
half a day's travel · both good in March, October, November
- Agra, India720 km
a full travel day · both good in March, October, November · a different price level (mixed)
- Delhi, India800 km
a full travel day · both good in March, October, November · a different price level (mixed)
Finding Kathmandu
Reading Kathmandu
Kathmandu essentials: getting in, getting around and getting it right
Kathmandu repays preparation: the visa queue, the taxi fare, the neighbourhood you sleep in, and the order you walk the valley's temple squares in.
Coffee, cake and people-watching: Kathmandu's café hours
Kathmandu's cafe culture is not a break from the city but the best seat in it, and knowing which rooftop, which hour and which quarter turns a coffee into the main event of the day.
Green Kathmandu: gardens, hilltops and easy escapes
Ring Kathmandu's chaotic core and you find walled gardens, botanical valleys and forested ridgelines — here is how to reach each one, what it costs, and which months actually work.
Kathmandu Has Four Bedrooms, and Only One of Them Is Thamel
The seven kilometres between Thamel and the Boudhanath stupa can cost you an hour in traffic, which is why the district matters more than the room: four Kathmandu neighbourhoods, priced three ways.
48 Hours in Kathmandu: Temples, Stupas and Momos, Hour by Hour
Most travellers treat Kathmandu as a stopover before the mountains. Give it two proper days and the valley's medieval cities and great stupas will repay you.
Kathmandu, framed
What we'd do in Kathmandu
See and do
- Eating
Nepali food deserves better than the banana pancakes of Thamel.
Read: Kathmandu essentials: getting in, getting around and getting it right - The Garden of Dreams
A century-old Rana-era pleasure garden restored to neo-classical elegance, the Garden of Dreams is — to our mind — the most civilised refuge in central Kathmandu: pavilions, ponds, lawns and loungers hidden behind a high wall at the edge of Thamel's mayhem.
Read: Green Kathmandu: gardens, hilltops and easy escapes - Doing it right
Walk clockwise around stupas and mani walls.
Read: Kathmandu essentials: getting in, getting around and getting it right - Shivapuri's forest trails
The national park rising along the valley's northern wall offers genuine hiking within sight of the city: oak and rhododendron forest, monasteries, waterfalls, and — on clear days — a Himalayan panorama from the ridgelines.
Read: Green Kathmandu: gardens, hilltops and easy escapes - Visa
most nationalities can get a visa on arrival — confirm current rules and fees on Nepal's official immigration portal before flying
Read: Kathmandu essentials: getting in, getting around and getting it right
Eat and drink
- Cake with a backstory
Kathmandu's sweet tooth has history.
Read: Coffee, cake and people-watching: Kathmandu's café hours - The local sweets
Do not leave without sel roti, the ring-shaped rice-flour doughnut fried at street stalls, crisp outside and chewy within — best hot, at breakfast, from a vendor with a queue.
Read: Coffee, cake and people-watching: Kathmandu's café hours
Where to stay
- If you just want the answer
Three nights, first visit, a trek to organise: Thamel, mid-range, courtyard-facing.
Read: Kathmandu Has Four Bedrooms, and Only One of Them Is Thamel
Practical essentials for Nepal
Nepalese rupee (NPR)
Nepali; English is widely used in Kathmandu, Pokhara and the trekking trade.
Type C/D/M, 230V 50Hz
Domestic flights and long-distance buses link Kathmandu and Pokhara; in town it is taxis, ride-hailing apps and hired cars, and there is no metro or transit card.
Customary in tourism — about 10% in restaurants without a service charge, and a set tip for trekking guides and porters at the end of the trip.
Tap water is not safe to drink — use bottled, boiled or properly filtered water.
Left-hand side; the 1968 International Driving Permit is required alongside your national licence, and the 1949 version is no longer accepted.
100 police, 102 ambulance, 101 fire (112 from a mobile)
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.