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The Perfect 48 Hours in Tbilisi, Hour by Hour

Tbilisi, GeorgiaMay 12, 20262 min read
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Sunset panorama over Tbilisi's rooftops with a church dome in the foreground and the curved glass canopy of the Bridge of Peace by the river01
Sunset panorama over Tbilisi's rooftops with a church dome in the foreground and the curved glass canopy of the Bridge of Peace by the river

Two days in Georgia's capital: sulfur baths, khinkali, a fortress at sunset and a flea market morning — planned hour by hour.

Tbilisi rewards wanderers. The Georgian capital folds a crooked Old Town, domed sulfur baths and a cliff-top fortress into a river valley, then adds supra feasting, amber wine and a café scene that has made it one of Europe-meets-Asia's most talked-about cities. Two days is enough for a deep first taste.

  • Where: Eastern Georgia, on the Mtkvari (Kura) river
  • Best months: May–June and September–October
  • What it costs: One of the best-value capitals in the region
  • Don't miss: khinkali, a sulfur bath, sunset from Narikala
The ramparts of Narikala Fortress above Tbilisi in spring, crenellated brick walls and a round tower running along a ridge of bright green grass and yellow wildflowers, two walkers on the footpath and the city spreading to the mountains beyond
The ramparts of Narikala Fortress above Tbilisi in spring, crenellated brick walls and a round tower running along a ridge of bright green grass and yellow wildflowers, two walkers on the footpath and the city spreading to the mountains beyondPhoto: Alex Slav / Unsplash

Day one: Old Town and the fortress

09:00 — Breakfast and the Old Town. Start with coffee and fresh khachapuri — molten cheese bread, Georgia's calling card — then drift into the Old Town's lanes of leaning houses and carved wooden balconies.

11:00 — Abanotubani. The brick-domed sulfur baths gave Tbilisi its name ("tbili" means warm). Book a private room for a soak and an optional, gloriously rough scrub. An hour in, you will understand the city's founding myth.

13:00 — Khinkali lunch. Order the soup dumplings by the handful: twist off the top, sip the broth, never use a knife. Wash them down with Georgian lemonade or a cold local beer.

15:00 — Cable car to Narikala. Ride from Rike Park up to Narikala Fortress, the ancient citadel above the Old Town, and walk the ridge past the Mother of Georgia statue. The panorama over the river valley is the city's best.

18:00 — Bridge of Peace and Rike Park. Cross the wave-shaped glass Bridge of Peace as the lights come on.

20:00 — Supra dinner. Go long: pkhali walnut spreads, badrijani (eggplant with walnut paste), mtsvadi grilled meat, and a bottle of qvevri-fermented amber wine — Georgia has been making wine for some 8,000 years.

Narikala fortress floodlit along its ridge above Tbilisi at night, the lit houses, balconies and church dome of the old town spilling down the hillside beneath it under a deep blue sky.
Narikala fortress floodlit along its ridge above Tbilisi at night, the lit houses, balconies and church dome of the old town spilling down the hillside beneath it under a deep blue sky.Photo: Viktor SOLOMONIK / Unsplash

Day two: markets, museums and Mtatsminda

09:30 — Dry Bridge flea market. Soviet cameras, medals, enamel bowls, hand-painted tiles: Tbilisi's open-air attic, best browsed with unhurried curiosity.

11:30 — Rustaveli Avenue. Walk the grand boulevard past the opera house and parliament, ducking into the Georgian National Museum for the astonishing pre-Christian goldwork of the Archaeological Treasury.

14:00 — Lunch and courtyard cafés. The streets around Rustaveli and Vera hide leafy courtyard cafés — try lobio (bean stew) with cornbread, or another round of khinkali, purely for research.

16:00 — Funicular to Mtatsminda. The century-old funicular climbs to Mtatsminda Park, the amusement park on the ridge above the city. Come for the view, stay for chacha-laced cocktails or hot ponchiki doughnuts.

19:00 — Wine bar crawl. Finish in the Old Town or Vera district, tasting your way through saperavi reds and amber rkatsiteli by the glass.

Tip: Book the sulfur baths a day ahead — the atmospheric private rooms in Abanotubani fill quickly — and go before lunch, when the domes are quietest.

In pictures
Dezerter Bazaar, TbilisiPhoto: Viktor SOLOMONIK / Unsplash
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