09:00 — Breakfast and the Old Town. Start with coffee and fresh khachapuri — molten cheese bread, Georgia's calling card — then drift into the Old Town's lanes of leaning houses and carved wooden balconies.
11:00 — Abanotubani. The brick-domed sulfur baths gave Tbilisi its name ("tbili" means warm). Book a private room for a soak and an optional, gloriously rough scrub. An hour in, you will understand the city's founding myth.
13:00 — Khinkali lunch. Order the soup dumplings by the handful: twist off the top, sip the broth, never use a knife. Wash them down with Georgian lemonade or a cold local beer.
15:00 — Cable car to Narikala. Ride from Rike Park up to Narikala Fortress, the ancient citadel above the Old Town, and walk the ridge past the Mother of Georgia statue. The panorama over the river valley is the city's best.
18:00 — Bridge of Peace and Rike Park. Cross the wave-shaped glass Bridge of Peace as the lights come on.
20:00 — Supra dinner. Go long: pkhali walnut spreads, badrijani (eggplant with walnut paste), mtsvadi grilled meat, and a bottle of qvevri-fermented amber wine — Georgia has been making wine for some 8,000 years.