Lyon wears its reputation lightly. France's third-largest metropolis is a UNESCO-listed city of two rivers and two hills, and — by broad consensus — the country's gastronomic capital. Here is what actually deserves your time, ranked.
Key facts
- Best months: April to June, September and October
- Layout: Vieux Lyon (old town) west of the Saone; the Presqu'ile peninsula between the rivers; Croix-Rousse on the northern hill
- Getting around: an efficient metro, two funiculars, and very walkable riverbanks
1. Eat in a traditional bouchon
Nothing defines Lyon like its bouchons — snug, checked-tablecloth restaurants serving the city's hearty canon: salade lyonnaise, quenelles de brochet in crayfish sauce, sausages with lentils, praline tarts. Look for the certified "Bouchon Lyonnais" label and book ahead for dinner; portions and conviviality are equally generous.
2. Walk the traboules of Vieux Lyon
The old town's Renaissance blocks hide traboules — covered passageways threading through courtyards and spiral staircases, once used by silk workers to move cloth dry through the city. Many are typically open to quiet visitors during daytime hours. Push a heavy door on a plain facade and a pink-towered courtyard appears. It is the best free adventure in France.