Manila is one of Asia's great value-for-money eating cities, and almost none of the best of it happens in a restaurant with a tablecloth. The food is at carinderias, bakeries, street grills and hundred-year-old noodle houses. Here is what to order.
Key facts
- Where: Metro Manila, Philippines
- Currency: Philippine peso; small vendors are cash-only
- Language: English is widely spoken, so ordering is easy
- Best areas for cheap eating: Binondo, Quiapo, Poblacion in Makati, and the food strips of Quezon City
Start with a silog
The default Filipino breakfast is a "silog" — garlic fried rice and a fried egg with something salty alongside. Tapsilog pairs it with cured beef, longsilog with sweet sausage, tocilog with sweetened pork. It costs very little, arrives in minutes, and is served at all hours.
Rice porridge, any time
Lugaw is soupy rice comfort food; arroz caldo adds chicken, ginger and a scatter of fried garlic; goto goes heavier with tripe. Squeeze in calamansi, add fish sauce to taste, and it becomes one of the best late-night dishes in the region.
The grill
Filipino street barbecue is skewered, marinated and grilled over coals: pork on sticks, chicken parts, and isaw, the chicken or pork intestine that regulars swear by. It comes with a vinegar dip and is eaten standing up. Choose a busy stall with high turnover.