IzmirTravel Guide
Turkey's laid-back Aegean metropolis, where a seafront promenade, a labyrinthine bazaar and a fiercely local food culture meet.
Is Izmir right for you?
Spring and autumn
Around 34°C by day in July, 13°C in January — recorded at the local weather station.
Mid-range. Comfortable without planning around money, expensive if you stop counting.
We have a full day here planned hour by hour. Longer stays are covered by subject rather than by route.
Spring and autumn
Average daily highs, recorded at Izmir, 1991-2020 normals.
Where this comes from
Turkish State Meteorological Service
Mid-range
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Mykonos, Greece190 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in May, June, September · a different price level (luxury)
- Rhodes, Greece240 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in May, June, September · a different price level (mixed)
- Santorini, Greece270 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in May, June, September · a different price level (mixed)
- Athens, Greece300 km
a short hop — comfortable overland · both good in April, May, June
Finding Izmir
Reading Izmir
What to Eat in Izmir: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Turkey's Aegean Table
Boyoz at breakfast, kumru by the sea, stuffed mussels at midnight — the dishes that define Izmir, and where locals actually eat them.
Izmir for Culture Lovers: Ancient Stones, Bazaars and the Aegean's Deep Past
Ancient Smyrna sits underneath modern Izmir — and Ephesus and Pergamon sit just beyond it. The best of the city's art and history, ranked.
Sunrise to Midnight: One Full Day in Izmir
Izmir is Turkey at its most relaxed, and one well-planned day can hold antiquity, bazaar chaos, a sea crossing and a long Aegean evening.
Where to Sleep in Izmir: The Neighbourhoods to Book (and the Ones to Skip)
Izmir's visitor city is one narrow waterfront strip: book inside it and everything works, book outside it and you will spend your trip in taxis.
Izmir, framed
What we'd do in Izmir
See and do
- The Agora of Smyrna
Right in the middle of the modern city lies the Roman-era agora of ancient Smyrna, rebuilt after a second-century earthquake — reputedly with help from Emperor Marcus Aurelius.
Read: Izmir for Culture Lovers: Ancient Stones, Bazaars and the Aegean's Deep Past - Kemeraltı Bazaar
A living Ottoman market district rather than a museum piece, Kemeraltı has been trading for centuries.
Read: Izmir for Culture Lovers: Ancient Stones, Bazaars and the Aegean's Deep Past - Konak Square and the Clock Tower
Izmir's symbol is the ornate, late-Ottoman clock tower on Konak Square, framed by palms and the small tiled Yalı Mosque.
Read: Izmir for Culture Lovers: Ancient Stones, Bazaars and the Aegean's Deep Past - The Archaeological and Ethnography Museums
Up from Konak, Izmir's Archaeological Museum gathers finds from Smyrna, Ephesus and the wider Aegean — statues, sarcophagi and treasures spanning millennia — while the neighbouring Ethnography Museum covers Ottoman-era daily life.
Read: Izmir for Culture Lovers: Ancient Stones, Bazaars and the Aegean's Deep Past
Eat and drink
- The Aegean meze table
Izmir's meze culture is herbal and sea-facing: sautéed wild greens with lemon and olive oil, artichokes cooked in oil, fresh cheeses from the peninsula, and whatever small fish the gulf gave that morning.
Read: What to Eat in Izmir: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Turkey's Aegean Table - Lokma for the road
Finish with lokma: crisp fried dough soaked in syrup, often handed out at street stands.
Read: What to Eat in Izmir: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Turkey's Aegean Table - Food HQs
the Kemeraltı bazaar quarter, the Kordon seafront, Alsancak's café streets and the Çeşme peninsula
Read: What to Eat in Izmir: A Dish-by-Dish Guide to Turkey's Aegean Table
Practical essentials for Turkey
Turkish lira (TRY)
Turkish; English is common in the big cities and the resort towns, much less so inland
Type C/F, 230V 50Hz
An Istanbulkart covers metro, tram, bus, funicular and ferry with sharply discounted transfers; contactless bank cards work on many turnstiles but not on the Marmaray, and charge the full fare every tap.
About 10% in restaurants, in cash and handed to the server; round up taxi fares, and check whether a service charge is already on the bill.
Tap water is treated to EU standards but old building plumbing means almost everyone drinks bottled water, which is cheap and everywhere.
Right-hand side; visitors need a 1968 International Driving Permit or a notarised Turkish translation of their licence — the 1949 permit is no longer accepted.
112 (all services)
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.