HanoiTravel Guide
Vietnam's thousand-year-old capital is one of the world's great street-food cities. In the Old Quarter's tangle of 36 guild streets, breakfast pho is ladled out beside silk shops, egg coffee is whisked in hidden cafés, and dinner happens on plastic stools at the kerb. Eating your way through Hanoi is not a side activity — it is the itinerary.
Is Hanoi right for you?
October–December, March–April
Cheap by regional standards — eating, sleeping and moving around all cost little.
We have a full day here planned hour by hour. Longer stays are covered by subject rather than by route.
October–December, March–April
Budget
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Luang Prabang, Laos410 km
half a day's travel · both good in November, December · a different price level (mid)
- Vientiane, Laos480 km
half a day's travel · both good in November, December
- Hoi An630 km
a full travel day · both good in March, April · a different price level (mid)
- Chiang Mai, Thailand760 km
a full travel day · both good in November, December
Finding Hanoi
Reading Hanoi
Hanoi, place by place
Everything below is named in one of our own stories about Hanoi. The line under each is the sentence that recommended it, and the link goes to the piece it came from.
Where to stay
The areas and addresses our writers put first
Ryan Le
Around Hoan Kiem Lake
The blocks ringing the lake soften the Old Quarter's intensity while keeping everything walkable — the water at dawn, the night market on weekends, the theater district.
Ryan Le
Ba Dinh
The government quarter around the mausoleum complex is leafy, orderly, and quietest at night.
The Old Quarter
HanoiThe Old Quarter is dense with guesthouses and small boutique hotels, many family-run, most offering remarkable comfort for the price.
The French Quarter
HanoiSoutheast of the lake, wide boulevards, the Opera House, and villa facades set Hanoi's most elegant scene.
Tay Ho (West Lake)
HanoiNorth of the center, Hanoi's largest lake is ringed by expat cafés, lakeside restaurants, and hotels with actual views and actual quiet.
Where to eat
Tables worth crossing the city for
Pho Gia Truyen
HanoiStart at Pho Gia Truyen on Bat Dan Street, one of the city's most revered beef pho shops.
Pho Thin
HanoiFor a heretical second bowl, cross town to Pho Thin on Lo Duc Street, where the beef is flash-fried in garlic before it meets the broth — a richer, smokier style that Hanoians argue about endlessly.
Banh Mi 25
HanoiBanh Mi 25, on Hang Ca Street in the Old Quarter, has become the traveller's benchmark for good reason: crisp baguettes, house pâté, grilled pork and pickles, assembled to order.
Bun Cha Huong Lien
HanoiBun Cha Huong Lien on Le Van Huu Street is the famous one: this is where Anthony Bourdain and Barack Obama shared a table in 2016, and the 'Combo Obama' (bun cha, a fried seafood roll and a Hanoi beer) is still on the…
Cha Ca La Vong
HanoiCha Ca La Vong, on the street that came to be named after the dish (Cha Ca Street), has served essentially one item for over a century: la vong fish, marinated with turmeric and galangal, finished at your table in a s…
Cafe Giang
HanoiEnd at Cafe Giang, tucked down an alley off Nguyen Huu Huan Street, where Nguyen Van Giang invented ca phe trung — egg coffee — in 1946 when milk was scarce.
What to see
The things that justify the trip
Filipe Freitas
Hoan Kiem Lake at first light
Before the traffic wakes, the lake at the city's heart belongs to its elders: tai chi circles, badminton games, joggers looping the shore, ballroom dancers with a portable speaker.
Hạnh Kiều
Long Bien Bridge at dusk
The rusted French colonial-era rail bridge across the Red River is a working antique: trains rattle down its spine while motorbikes and pedestrians take the flanking lanes.
West Lake's slow shoreline
HanoiHanoi's largest lake, Ho Tay, is where the city exhales.
The Temple of Literature's inner courtyards
HanoiVietnam's first national university, founded in 1070, gets busloads — but they cluster at the front.
What we'd do in Hanoi
See and do
- Hoan Kiem Lake at first light
Before the traffic wakes, the lake at the city's heart belongs to its elders: tai chi circles, badminton games, joggers looping the shore, ballroom dancers with a portable speaker.
Read: The Quiet Corners of Hanoi That Locals Love - Money and manners
Costs are low — street meals for pocket change, excellent mid-range hotels at prices that would seem like typos in Europe.
Read: First Time in Hanoi: Everything You Need to Know - The flower market before sunrise
On the edge of the West Lake district, Quang Ba flower market does its business in the dark: wholesale roses, lotus stems and chrysanthemums moving by motorbike-load, headlamps bobbing between the stalls.
Read: The Quiet Corners of Hanoi That Locals Love - West Lake's slow shoreline
Hanoi's largest lake, Ho Tay, is where the city exhales.
Read: The Quiet Corners of Hanoi That Locals Love - The Temple of Literature's inner courtyards
Vietnam's first national university, founded in 1070, gets busloads — but they cluster at the front.
Read: The Quiet Corners of Hanoi That Locals Love
Eat and drink
- Banh mi and bun cha
Banh Mi 25, on Hang Ca Street in the Old Quarter, has become the traveller's benchmark for good reason: crisp baguettes, house pâté, grilled pork and pickles, assembled to order.
Read: Hanoi street food guide: pho, banh mi and the Old Quarter - The turmeric fish ceremony
Cha Ca La Vong, on the street that came to be named after the dish (Cha Ca Street), has served essentially one item for over a century: la vong fish, marinated with turmeric and galangal, finished at your table in a sizzling pan with dill and spring onions, and eaten with noodles, peanuts and shrimp paste.
Read: Hanoi street food guide: pho, banh mi and the Old Quarter - Egg coffee and a nightcap
End at Cafe Giang, tucked down an alley off Nguyen Huu Huan Street, where Nguyen Van Giang invented ca phe trung — egg coffee — in 1946 when milk was scarce.
Read: Hanoi street food guide: pho, banh mi and the Old Quarter - Etiquette
sit where there is a queue of locals; menus are short for a reason
Read: Hanoi street food guide: pho, banh mi and the Old Quarter
Where to stay
- Ba Dinh — museums at your doorstep
The government quarter around the mausoleum complex is leafy, orderly, and quietest at night.
Read: Hanoi Stays for Every Budget: The Areas That Make SenseCheck ratesad · Booking.com - Noise rule
in central Hanoi, ask for a high floor or a back-facing room
Read: Hanoi Stays for Every Budget: The Areas That Make SenseCheck ratesad · Booking.com
Practical essentials for Vietnam
Vietnamese đồng (VND)
Vietnamese; English is widely spoken in tourist areas but school-taught proficiency is generally poor elsewhere
Type A/C/F, 220V 50Hz — most sockets accept both flat and round two-pin plugs
The Grab and Be apps cover taxis and motorbike rides in every city and sleeper trains link them; Ho Chi Minh City's Metro Line 1 has been open since December 2024.
Not obligatory but appreciated — round up or leave 5–10% in a restaurant, and a few dollars for a guide or driver.
Tap water is not safe to drink anywhere, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City included — stick to bottled or filtered, even for teeth.
Right-hand side; a 1968 International Driving Permit is required with your national licence to drive a car or a motorbike.
113 police, 114 fire, 115 ambulance
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.