CuscoTravel Guide
Cusco, the former capital of the Inca empire, sits at 3,400 metres in the Peruvian Andes — a city of colonial arcades built directly on Inca stonework, and the gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Done in the right order, the journey from its plaza to the citadel is one of travel's great set pieces.
Is Cusco right for you?
May–September (Andean dry season)
Mid-range. Comfortable without planning around money, expensive if you stop counting.
We publish a multi-day route for this one.
May–September (Andean dry season)
Mid-range
Typical cost profile for visitors
- Lima580 km
half a day's travel · but their best months do not overlap with this one · a different price level (mixed)
Finding Cusco
Reading Cusco
Cusco, place by place
Everything below is named in one of our own stories about Cusco. The line under each is the sentence that recommended it, and the link goes to the piece it came from.
Where to eat
Tables worth crossing the city for
Mercado de San Pedro
CuscoThen browse Mercado de San Pedro for fruit juices and textiles.
Chicha por Gastón Acurio
CuscoChicha por Gastón Acurio, just off the plaza, does refined Cusqueñan cooking; go easy on the pisco sours tonight.
What to see
The things that justify the trip
Isaac clinton Suca Fuentes
Plaza de Armas
Start in the Plaza de Armas, ringed by colonial arcades built on Inca walls.
Diego Solorzano
Qorikancha
Afternoon: Visit Qorikancha, the Inca temple of the sun with the church of Santo Domingo built directly on top of it — the clearest illustration in Peru of conquest in stone.
Things to do
Walks, tours and days out we would book again
Pisac
CuscoMorning: Take a taxi or tour over the pass to Pisac, whose hillside ruins — terraces pouring down the mountain — rival anything outside Machu Picchu itself.
Ollantaytambo
CuscoAfternoon: Continue down the valley to Ollantaytambo, a living Inca town whose grid of streets and water channels has run continuously since the 15th century.
Aguas Calientes
CuscoMorning: Board the train to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) — around 90 minutes tracing the Urubamba River as the highlands turn to cloud forest.
Huayna Picchu
CuscoIf you booked the Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain climb (separate, limited permits), that is your mid-morning.
Machu Picchu Mountain
Cusco
What we'd do in Cusco
See and do
- Dawn on the Plaza de Armas
At first light the Plaza de Armas belongs to street sweepers, a few vendors setting up, and the mountains turning gold above the cathedral's twin towers.
Read: Cusco at First Light and After Dark: The City Before and After the Tour Groups - San Pedro Market before breakfast
Cusco's central market opens early and is at its most honest before the crowds arrive: pyramids of fruit from the jungle valleys, sacks of a dizzying range of native potatoes, fresh bread, and juice stalls where the blenders never rest.
Read: Cusco at First Light and After Dark: The City Before and After the Tour Groups - Golden hour at Qorikancha
Late afternoon light does something special to Qorikancha, once the Inca empire's most sacred temple, its dark, precision-cut walls now supporting the colonial church of Santo Domingo built on top.
Read: Cusco at First Light and After Dark: The City Before and After the Tour Groups
Practical essentials for Peru
Peruvian sol (PEN)
Spanish, with Quechua and Aymara also official where they prevail; English is limited outside hotels and tour operators.
Type A/B/C, 220V 60Hz
Long-distance buses and domestic flights cover the distances, PeruRail and Inca Rail run the tourist trains to Machu Picchu, and cities have their own networks — Lima has the Metropolitano busway.
Tourist restaurants often add 10% as servicio; otherwise about 10% is normal, and taxi drivers are not tipped.
Tap water is not safe to drink; use sealed bottled or purified water and avoid ice you cannot vouch for.
Right-hand side; a photocard national licence is valid for a tourist stay, though rental firms often ask for an International Driving Permit.
105 police, 116 fire, 106 ambulance (SAMU); a unified 911 is being phased in from Lima
Country-level guidance, checked against official sources. Currency, fares and entry rules change — confirm anything time-critical before you travel.