8:00 — The Bund at first light
Start on the Bund promenade before the crowds, when locals fly kites and practice tai chi against the Pudong skyline. The strip of grand colonial-era buildings behind you — banks and trading houses of old Shanghai — glows in the morning sun.
10:00 — Yu Garden and the old city
Walk into the old town to Yu Garden, a Ming-dynasty classical garden of rockeries, ponds and zigzag bridges. The surrounding bazaar is touristy but fun; hold out for lunch nearby.
12:30 — Soup dumplings
Eat xiaolongbao — Shanghai's signature soup dumplings — either at the famous old shops around Yu Garden or at a branch of Din Tai Fung. Bite a hole, sip the broth, then dip in black vinegar with ginger.
15:00 — The French Concession
Metro or taxi to the former French Concession and walk its plane-tree-shaded streets — a low-rise world of 1930s villas, boutiques and cafes around Wukang Road. This is Shanghai's most seductive neighborhood for aimless wandering.
19:00 — Xintiandi dinner
Dine in Xintiandi, where restored shikumen stone-gate houses hold restaurants and bars. Try drunken chicken, braised pork belly and other Shanghainese classics — the local cuisine runs sweeter and richer than most Chinese regional cooking.
21:00 — The Bund by night
Return to the Bund. The illuminated skyline across the Huangpu is one of the planet's great urban views — or see it from the water on an evening river cruise.