Everyone arrives with the same photograph in their head: a stone terrace, a breakfast table, and a sky full of balloons drifting close enough that you can hear the burners firing. The photograph is real. It was also taken from a specific few hundred metres of hillside in one particular village, and every season a great many people book a cave room somewhere else entirely and find themselves standing on a rooftop at six in the morning watching balloons the size of rice grains.
Cappadocia is not a city with a centre and suburbs. It is a loose constellation of villages spread across roughly twenty-five kilometres of eroded volcanic rock, most of them fifteen to twenty-five minutes apart by road. They sit at different heights, and height is most of what you are paying for. Goreme lies in the bowl where the balloons lift off, so on a good morning they pass over the town itself. Uchisar stands on what is generally described as the highest point in the region and looks down on the whole system. Ortahisar is the quiet ridge in between, still mostly residential. Urgup, to the east, is the only one that functions as a proper town, with banks, a bus station and places to eat that are not hotel restaurants. Further out, at Cavusin, Ibrahimpasa, Mustafapasa and Ayvali, the coaches stop coming altogether.
So your budget does not only decide how good the room is. It decides which of those places you can realistically sleep in, because the cheap beds are concentrated in exactly one village and the expensive ones in two others.
Goreme Is the Entire Cheap End
If you are travelling on the smallest budget, the decision has already been made for you, and that is not a bad thing. Goreme grew up around the regional bus station, it was the first part of Cappadocia to take backpackers seriously, and it is the only village where you can eat dinner, book a tour, catch a minibus and sleep without ever getting into a vehicle.
At the bottom of the range, Shoestring Cave House runs a mixed dormitory carved into the rock along with private rooms, a courtyard garden and an outdoor pool, and a dorm bed has recently gone for something in the region of ten to fifteen euros per person with breakfast included. Travellers Cave Pension is the other long-running budget name, with simple cave and arched rooms, private bathrooms and a free pick-up from the Goreme bus station, which is worth more than it sounds when you arrive off a night bus with luggage and no idea which unlit lane your hotel is on. A basic private double in the village generally runs somewhere around forty to eighty euros depending on the month, and the month matters enormously.
Three things to check before you pay at this level. First, the terrace: it is the single asset a cheap Goreme room has, and plenty of the lowest-priced places are on the lower streets with a rock wall opposite. Ask whether there is a roof terrace, whether it is open to guests at sunrise, and what it looks at. Second, what cave means in the listing. Some rooms are genuinely carved into the tuff; others are arched stone rooms, which is an equally traditional local form of building but a completely different experience, darker in one case and airier in the other. Third, heating and ventilation. Rock holds temperature well, which is why people have lived in it here for millennia, but a badly ventilated cave room is damp, and between late autumn and early spring the village gets properly cold.
The cost of the cheap end is noise. Quad bike tours run through the valleys in the afternoon, the balloon minibuses start collecting people at around half past four in the morning, and the central streets are busy until late. Sleeping in the launch basin is a real advantage, though, and it applies even if you never buy a flight: on a flying morning you can see the whole fleet from the ground for nothing.